The most frequent question my clients ask me is how they should choose their pearls? The simplest answer I can give them is to choose pearls they love. There are, however, technical answers to this question. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) provides a set of seven value factors for grading pearls. These are: Size, Color, Shape, Luster, Nacre Quality, Surface Quality, and Matching (within a strand or set). In general, pearls of higher luster will provide higher value (in the long run) over pearl size, shape and color. This article talks about Pearl Luster value factor.
Luster actually comes from within the pearl surface. No other gemstone shares this characteristic. Other gemstones, diamonds, rubies and sapphires, shine from the surface. Pearls get their luster from the light reflecting off the aragonite (a form of calcium-carbonate) crystals that form the nacre (pronounced NAY-ker), or skin, of the pearl. Thus, the incomparable glow that comes from pearls.
Different varieties of pearls exhibit different qualities of luster. Akoya cultured pearls are renown for their high luster. The colder waters of Japan, where Akoyas are grown, are believed to produce long, thin aragonite crystals which thus reflect the light differently than Tahitians and South Seas. I have seen Akoyas that look like glass when viewed in the bright sunlight ? absolutely beautiful! Tahitian cultured pearls tend towards a metallic luster. The thick-nacred South Seas cultured pearls have a silky luster. Chinese cultured Freshwater pearls (CCFP) have made tremendous advances in the last decade. The highest quality CCFPs now rival Akoya pearls in quality and luster.
Higher luster is desirable. You can see your reflection in a high-quality pearl. The GIA identifies four distinct grades of luster:
- Excellent ? Sharp, bright reflection
- Good ? Bright reflection, but not sharp; hazy around edges
- Fair ? Reflection is hazy & blurred
- Poor ? Reflection is dim & diffused
Reputable pearl retailers will accurately use these descriptors with their pearl jewelry offerings. On-line retailers should offer generous return policies so clients can compare their purchases with these descriptors. This allows the client to gain confidence in the retailer and the retailer to establish a solid reputation in the online community.
Beth Schmitz, CEO Avant Pearl, GIA Pearls Graduate
Ms. Schmitz has more than 20 years in business and more than 6 years specific to the Jewelry Industry. She holds degrees from Harvard and University of TX at Austin. Her online boutique, http://www.AvantPearl.com features high end pearl jewelry from leading designers, limited-edition manufacturers and skilled craftsmen throughout the world.
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